When Your Skincare Obsession Becomes Dermorexia

Many of us are waging an endless war for perfect skin, with countless cleansers, toners, and tinctures that fill our bathroom cabinets. The latest victims? Girls barely old enough for pimples. Their extensive skincare routines, shared on TikTok, reveal how widespread the obsession with antiaging has become.

Beauty reporter Jessica DeFino has referred to this problem as "dermorexia." Like diet culture, the societal pressure to have ageless skin comes with health concerns like frustrating skin conditions and obsessive tendencies. Not to mention the wasted time and money that accompany unfulfilled promises. Here’s how we got here — and how we dig ourselves out of being dermorexic. 

The rise of elaborate skincare

Women have cultivated skincare routines for centuries, but never to the extent we do today. Skincare is the most shopped-for beauty category and the one that Gen Z spends the most money on, according to one survey. Another example: subscribers to a popular Reddit thread, r/SkincareAddiction, increased more than 60% in the past year. 

How’d we get from our grandma’s two-step skincare process to the elaborate routines common today? There are many contributing factors, including the inescapability of skincare on social media (see: GRWM videos), the rise of celebrity skincare companies, the branding of skincare as self-care, and the medicalization of skincare that has made everyday consumers familiar with specific ingredients like niacinamide or retinol. 

When our skincare obsession becomes dermorexia

So, how do you know when your 10-step skincare routine is a problem? It’s acting on a “misconception that more is better,” says dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD. She says layering too many products, which can include harsh active ingredients, “isn’t fostering skin health, but rather, irritation and a compromised skin barrier in many instances.” As the skin barrier becomes damaged, it can’t retain moisture and block out irritants as well. That can lead to or worsen conditions like acne, eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis.

The pressure to meet unrealistic beauty standards isn’t doing our mental health any favors, either. “The more we're focusing on our skin, the more it's becoming a source of self-consciousness and self-hate, particularly for teen girls,” says DeFino. DeFino points to a small study that shows there may be such a thing as a “substance-related disorder involving cosmetic procedures.”

How to treat your skin — and unrealistic beauty standards 

We all have or will get wrinkles. The idea that you can antiage your skin is a myth propped up by the beauty industry. Talking about that reality, especially with young girls, is one way to counteract these unrealistic expectations, according to dermatologist Sophia Reid, MD. Plus, being comfortable with aging might actually help your overall health. 

It’s also important to remember that what works for one influencer might not work for you. “The important part is really catering your skincare regimen towards your actual skin needs,” says Reid. Consider working with a dermatologist — and Bowe suggests going back to the basics and sticking with “a gentle cleanser and a nourishing moisturizer without fragrance or essential oils.” 

theSkimm

No one’s judging you if putting on under-eye patches or steaming your face is the highlight of your day. But for many, the endless pursuit of youthful skin can be mentally and physically (as well as financially) draining. And remember that your fancy skincare routine isn’t going to prevent the inevitable.